Traveling Sjols

Bergen - Day 5

I know that it might seem odd that this was posted immediately after my “Bergen - Day 4” post, but I’m throwing it up preemptively, since tomorrow will be spent on airplanes and in airports.

The view from the top of Mt. Ulriken

It’s our last day in Bergen! All that lies ahead now is 15+ hours in the air on Sunday, and then we’re home. As much as we’ve enjoyed our return to Norway to celebrate our tenth wedding anniversary, we’re about ready to be home. We miss our dogs and our little home and our friends, so it will be good to get back to our lives. But first, we have some more hiking to take care of.

We woke up early, had a hearty breakfast with most of what remained in our fridge, and caught the bus to the Ulkriksbanen, a cable car that takes you to the top of Mt. Ulriken, the tallest of the nine mountains that surround Bergen.

Mt. Ulriken is really more of a large, rolling plateau criss-crossed with hiking trails and dotted with little mountain cabins and small lakes. We explored the mountain for hours, stopping a few times to munch on a small snack of peanut butter, jam, and crackers that we brought along. While we were up there, a race was underway. Every year, Bergen hosts a race up the side of Mt. Ulriken, and people were gathering for hours beforehand to explore the mountain before lining up to watch the runners make their way up the muddy, rocky, steep mountainside. By the time we took the cable car back down and were walking to the bus stop, a vanguard of elite runners were making their way down the street and towards the mountain. Crazy, crazy people.

Now, we’re back at our apartment. We’ve showered, relaxed, and packed for our early departure in the morning. Tonight we’re headed out for one last nice dinner at SoHo, the same restaurant we ate at on the last night of our previous trip to Bergen, five years ago. Afterwards, it’s off to the bar in the basement of the Hotel Augustin, which is located in a wine cellar from the 1100s.

It’s been a wonderful trip that has only deepened our love for Norway. Tromsø was beautiful and unique and Bergen is better than we remembered it and so full of life. If only they weren’t so far away, we’d visit more often. Already, we’ve talked about where in the world to go next. The consensus is that we should stay stateside. International travel is great and we’ve had great trips every time we’ve been abroad, but there are plenty of places to visit back in the states, like Yellowstone or Yosemite or Glacier National Park, or even up to Canada (yes, Canada).

For now, though, we’ll bask in the glow of ten years spent together and yet another adventure that we’ve shared. Here’s to many, many, many more of both.

Bergen - Day 4

Inside Håkonshallen

Today, we split up and took it easy. Sara went back to the art galleries and checked out the shops and I went to immerse myself in history at museums and historical attractions.

First up was the Håkonshallen, a massive building whose foundations were laid during the reign of Haakon Haakonsson (ahh, redundancy…) in the mid-to-late 1200s. There are ruins all around the hall of earlier and contemporary buildings. As for the hall itself, unfortunately most of it had to be rebuilt after a massive explosion at the mouth of the Vagen in 1944, which either destroyed or set ablaze most of the building. It was rebuilt using the oldest known depiction of the hall and is still quite a sight, with massive wooden beams overhead and old stone foundational walls in the basement.

Right next door and also within the confines of the Bergunhus fortress, is Rosenkrantz Tower. The oldest part of the tower dates to just a few decades after the Håkonshallen, in the 1270s. But the majority of the tower as it stands today was constructed in the 16^th century. Every floor, from the dungeon to the top, featured backstory in how it was used throughout the centuries, focusing on the period right after Erik Rosenkrantz built it up. The stairways are as they were then, cramped with low ceilings, winding up the tower to the ramparts. On the top floor there is a large display showing pieces of a medieval cathedral that also inhabited the grounds. They were uncovered after the explosion in 1944. Accidental discovery of history after disaster is a continuing theme for the day.

After the cramped quarters of Rosenkrantz Tower, I needed some fresh air, so I took a stroll up to the Bergenhus Festening, or Bergen Fortress, the ruins of which are located on a hill overlooking both the Bryggen (the north side of the Vagen) and the bay on the other side of the hill to the north. I got a spectacular view of the city, the bay, and the surrounding islands and skerries (rocky pieces of land that shield the harbor from the North Sea).

I wandered back down the hill to the Bryggens Museum, which is built overtop of ruins of the oldest residential part of Bergen, which were uncovered after the last big fire in Bergen, in 1955. Because most of the buildings throughout Bergen’s history are wooden, many fires have ravaged the city. Even the uncovered foundations, which are over 900 years old, are charred from fire.

The oldest remaining buildings in the Bryggen date from the early 1700s, and are still in use today as shops and restaurants. Packed tightly together to the point that you almost feel claustrophobic walking through boardwalk alleys in-between them, it’s easy to get a feeling for what life was like over three centuries ago. Of course, today they are filled with far more tourists than back then.

My last stop was to be the University Museum of Cultural History, but by the time I made my way across the downtown to the university district, it was already 2:45, and the museum closed at 3. As luck would have it, Sara and I had planned to meet back up at 3, so I had just enough time to dip into the supermarket to grab some vegetables for dinner.

Since we are staying in an apartment, we thought it would be nice to spend at least one evening in and cook for ourselves. Even though I only had a toaster over and a hotplate to work with, I managed to bake some potatoes, fry up some chicken breasts, and grill some zucchini. Afterwards, we spent a quiet evening catching up on Mad Men and 30 Rock and talking about our trip. Just one more full day left in Bergen before we fly home!

Bergen - Day 3

Syttende Mai! Gratularer deg dagen! It’s the 17^th of May, Norway’s Constitution Day. Congratulations on the day!

Today is the day for celebration, and it showed from very early. At 7am, a 21-gun salute was fired. It boomed throughout the city with each volley like call-and-response on a massive scale. As I looked down on the street from our fourth floor window, people were strolling down the boulevard in their finest clothes. Suits and ties, colorful dresses, with many decked head-to-toe in traditional Norwegian garb. The light rain and overcast skies did little to dampen everyone’s spirits.

We woke up and I made us a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs, French toast, and bacon, with orange slices on the side. Now that I’ve finally worked out the proper ratio of coffee grounds to water for the coffee maker, I even had some tasty coffee to wash it all down with.

At 10:30, we got dressed and headed down to take part in the festivities. The parade started 11, so we needed to find a prime spot to take it all in. We ended up down on the Vagen, right where the parade turned around, and we could see everything. I’m not sure that I’ve seen a more casual parade, outside of the small-town parades for Oslo’s (Minnesota, not Norway) Bean Day or the Marshall County Fair parade in Warren.

People marched past, many of them acting more like spectators themselves than actual participants. Seemingly every single group or organization was represented. From the Boecorps (an homage to the adolescents who imitated archers in the 19^th century), to the Bergen gymnastics and tumbling organization, to the Bergen Scottish Society (complete with bagpipes, of course), to the fire department, the University of Bergen student radio station (student radio REPRESENT!!!), the Hansa brewery (full of half-drunk employees in traditional dress, swilling bottles of their own brew), fish merchants, the Norwegian equivalent of Boy Scouts (which, apparently, also admit girls – good on them!), and even some sort of dental hygene float with a girl dressed up as a large tooth.

Like any good parade, it was chaotic, rambunctious, and loud. Some spectators even left the crowd and started walking along with the parade marchers. Norwegian flags were everywhere – on the sides of buildings, hanging off balconies, in storefronts, and waving the hands of small children and adults alike. It was all quite the sight to see. All of the downtown streets were clogged with people and it looked like every single soul in Bergen had come out to join the festivities. It was overwhelming.

The main difference between Syttende Mai and our Independence Day? Next to no military presence. We saw a small regiment of Norwegian army and navy troops and a few veterans march by, but the vast majority of the parade was focused on the people and their way of life.

After the parade, we weaved our way through the throngs of people, who had started to disperse into bars and cafes for their post-parade drink of choice. Kids trailed behind their parents with balloons of all shapes and sizes and packs of russfeiring (you remember them, right?) were clearly enjoying their last day in their russ wear.

It really was an amazing celebration. When we ventured out later that evening, the crowds had simmered down, but there were still vendors out in the streets and the festplassen (festival plaza) was full of kids dancing to techno that was pumping from a mock Viking ship. We grabbed a bite to eat at a kabob house recommended by a couple of Bergen guides for having good, cheap food. Though the kabob wasn’t what I was expecting – it was more like a burrito, with zesty meat, tomatoes, corn, lettuce, and some sort of hot sauce – it was delicious and really hit the spot.

Right before we went to bed, fireworks started to go off. The sun sets later here, around 11, so they started very late. I quickly threw on some clothes and headed to the roof to get a glimpse, only to catch the last few explosions. It was over almost before it had begun, lasting maybe five minutes, tops. In one department, at least, our Independence Day trumps Norway’s. We really know how set off some fireworks.

Bergen - Day 2

Museums are the name of the game today. Specifically, art museums. Bergen’s art museums are lined up in a row and feature a rather impressive collection of Norwegian artists from many different eras. My knowledge of painting and art in general is very, well, general. I can appreciate it for what it is, but as far as understanding it’s place within the context of the era or style or school or whatever, I’m pretty much clueless. But it doesn’t affect my enjoyment of it, so it’s all good.

We started out at the Lysverket Museum, which houses an extensive collection of pieces by Norwegian painter Nikolai Astrup and Johann Christian Dahl, not to mention some Edvard Munch and a few Picassos. Sara is a big Munch fan, so seeing his pieces was especially fun for her. I really enjoyed Dahl’s work, as well as Astrup. Their paintings focused on contemporary Norwegian society and culture. Astrup was especially interesting because of the element of surrealism that he added to very contemporary scenes.

After Lysverket, we moved right on down the line to the Rasmus Meyer collection, which housed more Munch.

We took a quick lunch break back at our apartment before headed to the next two galleries, which housed more contemporary art than the first two. I’m not one for contemporary pieces. I guess I don’t get it. I find much of it to be weird for the sake of being weird. But it was interesting.

After a full day of taking in art, we decided to walk around a bit. It had been sunny and beautiful the day we arrived, but today was overcast with drizzle. It was just like being back home in Portland.

Bergen is a pretty cosmopolitan city, considering it’s size (only about 260,000 people) and has been a cultural center since the middle ages. It shows. The tiny downtown area near the Vagen (port) is highly walkable and filled with shops and small cafes, restaurants, and bars of all shapes and sizes. It’s highly walkable. Most of the streets in the main square area and down by the fish market on the Vagen are car-free, with wide boulevards. 

I suppose that’s part of the reason I love this city. I’ve never liked sprawl for sprawl’s sake. Strip malls and megamalls and suburbs and neighborhoods built around cul de sacs all scream “isolation” to me. You end up becoming more distant from people and distrustful of strangers. Cities like Bergen and even Portland take pains to encourage that sort of interaction, to get people out of their cars and into society, to mix with other people and feel like you’re a part of something.

That kind of interaction, even though it’s occurring in heavily-populated city centers, reminds me of the small towns I grew up in, oddly enough. You actually got to know your neighbors and learned to rely on other people. The camaraderie of community is important, and suburbs and strip malls and urban sprawl, in my opinion at least, take far too much of that away and replace it with fear of “others” and hours spent confined in cars.

But enough of that preachy crap.

Instead of dropping a pretty penny on dinner, we hedged and grabbed some McDonalds to take back to the apartment so we could head out later and enjoy some nightlife. Eating out anywhere in Norway is expensive. Heck, even our McDonalds ran us around $25.

After scarfing down the Micky D’s, we wandered around again. We thought about taking in a band, but the cover charge was astronomical, so we headed over to the Café Opera, a place we had been to on our last trip here, for a wonderful chocolate fondant with ice cream. It was nice to just sit and take in the atmosphere of the city.

Having an apartment, instead of staying in a hotel, has helped with that, as well. The first thing we did once we arrived was go to the grocery store. Ever since, it almost feels like we’re “playing house” in our fourth-floor walkup. Even though I’d hate to ever give up the freedom of our house, I can see the appeal of a small apartment in the middle of he city.

Tonight, Bergen’s soccer team had a match and there were fans in team colors all over. Brann won rather handily, 5-0, and supporters spilled out into the streets, singing songs and celebrating. Add to that the fact that tomorrow is Syttende Mai, Norway’s Constitution Day, and it’s very festive out in the streets.

We’ve been told that Syttende Mai in Bergen is quite the celebration. Imagine the 4^th of July, the state fair, and New Years Eve wrapped into one and that about does it. Plenty of carousing late into the night the night before followed by a massive parade and celebration all day on Syttende Mai. It should be quite the experience. More to come on that, tomorrow, though.

Tromso - Day 4.5 / Bergen - Day 1

Our last full day in Tromsø. It feels like the end of the trip, but we’re only at the halfway point. This is the longest trip we’ve been on by only two days, but it feels like so much more. That’s probably because on both our trip to Spain and our first visit to Norway, at least one full day was dedicated to travel. This time around, we have just three hours’ worth of flights to get to the second leg of our tour in Bergen. It’s weird how just a few short days here and there seems to make an incredible difference.

Today, we checked out of our hotel. It was an accident on my part, booking this hotel for four nights instead of five. To be fair, their booking system and the currency exchange conspired to confuse the shit out of me. On the bright side, we found a room for our final night here in a different hotel for $60 less than what we were paying here. Savings!

I took the bus to the airport early to pick up our rental car. We thought it would be fun to explore the surrounding countryside on our own, seeing as we’re right in the heart of so many mountains and islands. No definite plans, but I grabbed a map when we arrived and made note of a few routes that looked promising.

Once I arrived back at the hotel and picked up Sara and our packs, we were off to Sommerøy, an island right at the edge of the Norwegian Sea. Only 45km away from the city, it gave us plenty of time to explore and take our time. That turned out to be a stroke of genius, because we were pulling off the road every few minutes to take pictures of the stark, intimidating mountain ranges and bleak but beautiful scenery. The granite monsters rise out of mossy fields and bogs like fists and elbows, sharp and blunt and immediate.

Sommerøy felt like the end of the earth. Mostly because of the gale force winds that nearly knocked us sideways when we stepped out of the car. The ocean was a supernatural shade of blue-green, almost like someone had dumped food dye into the water as a goof. Waves roiled and thrashed against the coastline.

At one of our stops along the road, Sara got out at ahead of me and was making her way to the sandy beach (yeah, among all of these rocks and mountains and in the middle of such foreboding terrain, there were pristine white sand beaches) when she let out a screech. I turned just in time to see a massive bird fighting against the gusting wind just above where she was standing. It was a white-tailed eagle. The cousin to the bald eagle, they too are endangered and protected by the government, and we can both say with certainty that they are every bit as large as a bald eagle. It had been munching on a cod when Sara literally stumbled within a few feet of it. With a wingspan of 6-8’ and standing waist-high or taller, it was a bit of a shock to have one take off right in front of your face. I give Sara credit for not sprinting back to the car, because, damn…

Once we got back to the city and settled into our new digs, we rested and grabbed a bite to eat. It was only mid-afternoon and I decided that we should make the most of our car rental and take another short jaunt in a few hours. With unlimited daylight, why not? We rested up (still not a lot of full nights sleep, remember) and then headed back out, this time to a different part of the coast.

We came upon a small huddle of houses, behind which was a beautiful waterfall fed by a stream coming off a frozen lake. We got out and wandered around the mossy, boggy, stunted-tree filled landscape for about an hour, just taking pictures and exploring. 

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The next day, we got up early, grabbed our flight to Oslo, then to Bergen and arrived in the early afternoon. The sun was out and the city was alive. We met up with the caretaker of our apartment, got a quick walkthru, settled in, and then hit the streets to re-acquaint ourselves with Bergen after five years away. 

Right now, we are still scrounging for wifi (none in our apartment, yet…supposedly) and having a great time. Updates may be a bit more sporadic in the coming days, but we’ll try our best to keep it up. Tomorrow is the 17th of May, Norway’s Constitution Day, and the celebration that accompanies it is supposed to be pretty crazy, not to mention that it culminates literally right outside our front door. We’ve been seeing crews putting up partitions and preparing for the massive influx of people since we arrived. Go ahead and do a Google search for “17 May Norway” and you’ll see what we’re going to be in the middle of. It should be exciting to say the least and exhausting to boot. 

We’re off to grab a bite to eat before we retire for the day. More on Bergen soon. 

Quick Update-Bergen

We have arrived in Bergen safe and sound. Our apartment is very nice and extremely certrally located. We’re right in the middle of everything. But…the wifi/internet connection is down at the moment. I’m typing this update from the tourist information office down the street. Hopefully it will be fixed rather soon so I can update you on outlast day in Tromso and our first day in Bergen. Until then, you’ll have to be patient.

Today, we are checking out all of the art galleries in town (literally, they’re all next to each other in a row). Should be a great time. Bergen is just as amazing as we remembered, if not more so.